Hello! I’m Jessica, a British makeup artist now based in New York. My focus is always beautiful skin, that looks like skin! Which is fairly straightforward for anyone with clear skin, but the natural look can feel really daunting when you suffer from acne or breakouts. I’ve always had hormonal, diet and stress-related breakouts, so this advice comes from many years of experience!
I wouldn’t dream of touching a model's face without washing and sanitising my hands, so the same should apply to your own lovely face! If you prefer to use brushes or sponges be mindful of the bacteria they carry and regularly wash them with warm water and gentle shampoo.
I always start by cleaning the face and neck by sweeping over a cotton pad with micellar water. I prefer Bioderma or Garnier. I also apply lip balm at the start, so it can work whilst I'm prepping. Lanolin nipple balm is incredibly good. 47 Skin's Anti-Blemish & Scar Repair Serum is a brilliant base - lightweight but incredibly soothing and hydrating. Take a moment to massage this in. It contains Silver Chitoderm®, which has incredible antibacterial properties - I always imagine it healing my breakouts and scars as I apply! Mostly I just wear the serum, but if my skin is feeling especially dry, I will apply either Avene’s oil control moisturiser or Embryolisse’s lait crème concentrate. Your skin should now be looking more alive! CURL your lashes with Surratt beauty’s lash curler. Truly the best I’ve used.
If your spots are textured I highly recommend Clarins’ instant touch. Use a clean spatula to scrape a little out onto the back of your hand and apply a little to the spot. It will create a smooth base to apply concealer.
Laura Mercier’s Secret Camoflauge is a true icon. I love using the warmth of my fingers to ensure the concealer melds into the skin and looks as natural as possible. I always apply a little under the eyes and the redness around my nose, and then look at the spots individually - sometimes this is more time-consuming than others! I focus the majority of the product on the blemish and then tap around the blemish to blend into the skin. Day to day, I just wear concealer, but for a more polished look, I apply a pump of foundation (Armani’s luminous silk) on the back of my hand and then dip a tiny touch on a brush. Buff in whatever you have on the brush before applying more product - sheer layers will allow more coverage but blending in will ensure your skin looks natural.
To me, the perfect highlight is studying someone’s skin, trying to figure out whether they have makeup on - balm is very good for this! I apply balm from my index finger to ring finger and distribute evenly over both hands and then tap over the high planes of the face - whether the light hits - top of cheekbones first, a touch on the bridge of the nose and a little on the brow bone. Egyptian Magic Balm, Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream and Weleda’s Skin Food are fabulous for this.
Step back now and see whether any of your breakouts need to be re-concealed. Day to day I will avoid powder but if ~ it’s a do ~ I will lightly apply powder (Make Up Forever HD) with a small fluffy brush over breakouts - but concentrating on the spot to keep the texture of my face glowy.
Try not to touch!! Any bacteria on your face could inflame the breakout and extend your healing time. If you do need to re-conceal be sure to do so with clean hands.
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