Hello! I’m Jessica, a British make up artist now based in New York. My focus is always beautiful skin, that looks like skin! Which is fairly straightforward for anyone with clear skin but the natural look can feel really daunting when you suffer with acne or breakouts. I’ve always had hormonal, diet and stress related breakouts so this advice comes from many years of experience!
1. Wash your hands!
I wouldn’t dream of touching a models face without washing and sanitising my hands so the same should apply to your own lovely face! If you prefer to use brushes or sponges be mindful of the bacteria they carry and regularly wash.
adds texture to skin that already has developed texture.
2. Skin prep is ESSENTIAL!
Clean face and neck by sweeping over a cotton pad with miceller water. I prefer Bioderma or Garnier. Apply lip balm now so it can work whilst you’re prepping, Lanolin nipple balm is incredibly good. 47 skins anti blemish serum is a brilliant base - lightweight but incredibly soothing and hydrating. Take a moment massaging this in. It contains Silver Chitoderm™ which has incredible antibacterial properties - I always imagine it healing my breakouts and scars as I apply! Mostly I just wear the serum but if my skin is feeling especially dry I will apply either Avene’s oil control moisturiser or Embryolisse’s lait creme concentrate. Your skin should now be looking more alive! CURL your lashes with Surratt beauty’s lash curler. Truly the best I’ve used.
3. Smooth the skin!
If your spots are textured I highly recommend Clarins’ instant touch. Use a clean spatula to scrape a little out onto the back of your hand and apply a little to the spot. It will create a smooth base to apply concealer.
Laura Mercier’s Secret Camoflauge is a true icon. I love using the warmth of my fingers to ensure the concealer melds into the skin and looks as natural as possible. I always apply a little under the eyes and the redness around my nose and then look to the spots individually - sometimes more time consuming than others! Focusing the majority of the product on the blemish and then tapping around to blend into the skin. Day to day I just wear concealer but for a more polished look... I apply a pump of foundation (Armani’s luminous silk) on the back of my hand and then dip a tiny touch on a brush. Buff in whatever you have on the brush before applying more product - sheer layers will allow more coverage but blending in will ensure your skin looks natural.
To me the perfect highlight is studying someone’s skin trying to figure out whether they have make up on - balm is very good for this! I apply balm from my index finger to ring finger and distribute evenly over both hands and then tap over the high planes of the face - whether the light hits - top of cheekbones first, a touch on the bridge of the nose and a little on the brow bone. Egyptian magic balm, Elizabeth Arden eight hour cream and Weleda’s Skin Food are fabulous.
Step back now and see whether any of your breakouts need to be re concealed. Day to day I will avoid powder but if ~ it’s a do ~ I will lightly apply powder (Make Up Forever HD) with a small fluffy brush over breakouts - but concentrating on the spot to keep the texture of my face glowy.
Try not to touch!! Any bacteria on your face could inflame the breakout and extend your healing time. If you do need to re-conceal be sure to do so with clean hands.
Thanks a lot for email. I will try.